[10 essential tips for visiting Marrakech]

Marrakech - Jemaa el-Fna

Having recently spent an incredible four nights in Marrakech, my thoughts have remained in the intriguing and intoxicating Moroccan city, despite having been back at work for a couple of days. It’s a destination that I’d been dying to visit for a number of years, and I found it to be completely unlike anywhere I had ever been before. It’s a city that welcomes visitors with an assault to their senses; there is no easing into the noises, the smells, the traffic, the haggling and the heat. There is just nothing subtle about this beautiful African city.

Although millions of visitors arrive in Marrakech each year and it’s a very tourist-friendly destination there are a number of things to be aware of, which will help you to enjoy your experience a little more. Here are my top ten tips to know before you go:

1. Take cash with you

ATMs are a little difficult to locate within Marrakech’s ancient medina, and the ones that can be found (usually around Jemaa el-Fna, the main square) often don’t accept foreign cards. Many restaurants accept credit cards, but in the souks it’s imperative to pay with cash, mostly in the Moroccan currency (Dirham), but occasionally Euros are accepted. There’s a Bureau de Change in Marrakech’s Menara airport arrival hall so come armed with cash and change it for Dirham as soon as you land in the country.

2. Dress appropriately

Morocco is a devoutly Muslim country, and being in the medina feels like stepping back into a long-forgotten time. From the call to prayer that echoes a loud chorus from towers throughout the ancient walled city five times a day, to the donkeys that plod dutifully through the dusty souk alleys carrying their master’s wares, every aspect of life seems picturesquely traditional. Due to the strictly observed religion in this section of the city, it’s advisable to wear clothes that are more conservative: for guys that means t-shirts rather than tank tops, and for women it’s respectful to cover shoulders, and wear skirts or shorts that are at least knee length. It’s not that there would be consequences if you wear more revealing clothing (and let’s face it, in the Moroccan heat that’s tempting), but it’s always best to be sensitive to the culture you’re in.

3. Choose chilled accommodation

I had a few people recommend that I stay no more than two days in Marrakech, because it’s ‘too hectic’. I believe that these people stayed in accommodation that didn’t offer respite from the hustle and bustle of the city. The streets are crazier than anywhere I’ve ever been, and just a few hours of walking around the streets and the souks is enough to exhaust even the most energetic tourist. Choose your accommodation wisely, and ensure it’s a calm, quiet and peaceful place to escape to at the end of a manic day.

Accommodation I recommend: Zaouia 44 (more info about this wonderful riad coming soon)

4. Don’t bother following the signs

Marrakech Souks

Even someone with the keenest sense of direction is guaranteed to get lost in the twisting, turning, unmarked streets of Marrakech. In the area around the Jemaa el-Fna, brightly coloured signs helpfully point the way to the main square…except…the signs are wrong! Instead of leading wanderers to the central point they are seeking, the markers lead in circles even further into the winding alleys of the souks. It’s best to just ask for someone to point the way for you. Just make sure to keep in mind tip number five:

5. Don’t accept directions from strangers

Chances are, if you are walking around Marrakech, even if you don’t look lost someone will stop you and suggest that you follow them. Their destination could be an amazing Saharan Berber market, or a ‘festival of colour’ (the former leading you to the guide’s friend’s store, and the latter taking you to the pungent smelling leather tanneries). Everyone who’s been to Marrakech has a similar story of their own, each with one thing in common: an end result of confusion, obligation to pay someone for something you didn’t want, and time spent away from all the other amazing things to see and do in Marrakech. If you need directions, ask a policeman or someone working in a shop to point the way…but don’t let them lead you there!

6. Be alert

Traffic in Marrakech

Not only are there cars to watch out for on the streets of Marrakech, but there are also bicycles, motorcycles, donkeys, horses, donkeys with trailers, horses with carriages, stray cats and plenty of other pedestrians to contend with. There are no footpaths, no lanes and very few traffic lights. Chaos is the only way this scene can be described; absolute chaos, so keep your wits about you as you’re walking around the streets.

7. Catch cabs

If you’re not keen on walking on the hectic streets in the hot sun, grab a cab to your destination. The area inside the medina is quite small, so getting from the southernmost point to the northernmost shouldn’t take more than 15 minutes. Although travellers on a tight budget might choose to walk or take public transport, the cabs are very affordable (keep in mind that I’m comparing this to London taxi prices!), and a fare within the medina shouldn’t cost more than around 40 Dirhams, which is less than £3.50. Being a passenger of a taxi is an experience in itself, as the crazy traffic can be observed from a whole other perspective!

8. Haggle

If you are catching taxis in Marrakech, make sure you haggle to get a reasonable price, and agree on the fare before you get in. If a taxi driver sees you are a tourist, they will try to charge you more than double what the fare really should be. Aim to spend 30-40 Dirhams to get anywhere within the medina; if the driver won’t budge on price just tell them you’ll find another cab and they will usually relent. The same goes for goods in the souks; bargaining is a part of the Moroccan culture, so don’t be shy about driving the price down, but do it with a smile and a sense of good fun, because that’s what it is!

9. Spend before you leave

Marrakech Souks

The Dirham is a closed currency, which means you can change your money for Dirhams when you arrive, but you won’t be able to change it back on your way out. Try to plan ahead by not taking too much cash out (but do keep in mind tip number one; you may struggle to locate an ATM). Of course, if you do find yourself with a little extra money on your last day, head to the souks where the stall owners will gladly take it off your hands in exchange for leather goods, spices, rugs, tagines or hundreds of other beautiful and exotic items.

10. Get to the airport two hours before your flight – at least!

Despite the hectic streets, people in Marrakech are extremely relaxed, and the pace off the roads is always unhurried. The airport is an especially good example of this, as each step of the process seems to take longer than the last: check-in, despite a relatively small line, takes longer than a hammam treatment, the gender-separated security line inches forward at a glacial pace, as does the immigration queue. Don’t be fooled by the fact that this is a small airport; allow plenty of time to get through to your departure gate.

Have you been to Marrakech? What other tips would you add?
If you’re visiting Marrakech soon, what else would you like to know before you go?

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[where to eat and drink in Porto]

It takes no more than a few seconds after arriving in Porto to realise how colourful and eclectic the Portuguese city is. Every other building boasts a kaleidoscope of colours on its tiled façade, and next to it stands a concrete wall turned graffiti canvas. There are contrasts everywhere in Porto; the food being no exception. The lightest dish of freshly caught seafood happily sits side-by-side on a menu with a hearty rabbit stew; dessert can be a simple shot of espresso or a buttery, custard-filled pastry, and zesty green wines are sipped moments before a glass of rich, ruby port appears.

If ever you find yourself in Porto (and I strongly recommend that you do), be sure to explore as much of the food and drink as you possibly can. Here’s a guide to whet your appetite:

For upmarket coffee and cake

Majestic Café:

Majestic Cafe Porto Portugal

Majestic Café‘s Art Nouveau interior alone makes it well worth a visit; elegant mirrors adorn the walls, while diners sip coffees and people-watch from the comfort of intricately detailed leather chairs. Thankfully, the beautiful surroundings are not the only reason to visit this historical café; the menu offers plenty of delicious choice. Indulge in a veritable feast with the Majestic Café’s signature breakfast, or simply sip on a creamy coffee and nibble a pastry while planning your day’s itinerary. Don’t expect exceptional service, but the food and setting more than make up for the somewhat surly staff.

Majestic Cafe Porto Portugal

For exotic tea in the sunshine

Rota do Chá:

Tucked between galleries in the heart of Porto’s art district, Rota do Chá offers a quiet oasis in a serene, Chinese-inspired garden. The smells from the kitchen don’t inspire confidence in the menu, but the impressive selection of world teas makes this the perfect sunny respite from gallery hopping. A tea shop stands at street-level, where all teas from the menu, as well as any tea accessory you could want or need, can be purchased.

Rota do Chá Porto Portugal

For grungy mid-afternoon beers

Café Ancôra D’ouro:

Frequented by students from the nearby university, Café Ancôra D’ouro was the first café in Porto with electricity, and allegedly where revolutionaries used to sit over a beer or a coffee to discuss politics. Although not dripping with historical charm like Majestic Café, this casual meeting spot has atmosphere aplenty, and will provide you with cheap beer and bar food to sustain your wanderings through the nearby gardens and shops.

Cafe Ancora D'ouro Porto Portugal

For a glass (or bottle) of wine with a view

Wine Quay Bar:

Perched above the buzzing Cais da Ribeira riverfront area, Wine Quay Bar offers an extensive wine list and an array of cheeses and meats to nibble on. Although the service can be a little illogical (don’t come here if you’re in a hurry), and there are only enough seats for a handful of people, if you’re lucky enough to score a table you’ll be rewarded with perfect recommendations of wine and tapas. Watch the sun set over the river, glass of wine in hand, before moving onto a new location for dinner.

For the feeling you’ve discovered a hidden gem

Solar Moinho de Vento:

Not a restaurant you’d be likely to stumble upon at random (a local recommended it to us as we wandered around lost, looking for an authentic dinner option), Solar Moinho de Vento is packed with locals which is always a good sign. The English menu hinted that it is popular with tourists, but that hasn’t tainted the feeling that this is an undiscovered gem. The food is fresh and flavourful, and the friendly wait staff can be trusted to recommend items from the menu. The prices are good, the dishes faultless and the staff attentive…visit this restaurant now while it’s still relatively unknown!

Solar Moinho de Vento Porto

For an outstanding seafood meal

Adega sau Nicolau:

Adega Sau Nicolau Porto Portugal

Restaurants in Porto’s riverfront area, Cais da Ribeira, may be considered overpriced and touristy, but Adega sau Nicolau is a firm exception to this rule. Sit outside on tiny, precarious wooden tables that look down a narrow stone alleyway to the Douro river. For the ultimate lunch experience, ask your waiter to choose your menu for you; the catch of the day will not disappoint, nor will the perfect wine recommendations. Seafood should be your order of choice, as it’s all freshly caught just metres away from the restaurant’s kitchens, and on sunny days enjoy the musicians busking around the tables. Adega sau Nicolau offers an experience as well as a meal, and it’s one you will never forget.

Adega Sau Nicolau Porto Portugal

And finally, a must-try when in Portugal

Pastel de nata:

Don’t leave Portugal without trying one of these famous pastries; the pastel de nata. A rich, vanilla-spiced custard fills crisp, light, flaky pastry to create a not-to-be-missed treat. The quality of the pastry is what one would expect from a French patisserie, and even custard-haters will agree that this is an essential culinary experience for any visitor to Portugal. Ask a local where to find a good pastel de nata to ensure you taste the best of the best.

Pastel de Nata Porto Portugal

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[5 Reasons to Stay at Gallery Hostel - Porto, Portugal]

A cockroach in the shower. Snoring room-mates. Being locked inside a dormitory. Questionable hairs found on ‘clean’ bedsheets. Rooms resembling prison cells. Fear of possessions being stolen. Lights being turned on at 3am. Bed bugs.

These are the images my mind procures when I hear the word ‘hostel’, owing to various experiences I’ve endured throughout my travels. Not all of my hostel memories are negative, but my overriding feeling about this accommodation category in general is that I’m at a stage in life where I no longer need, or want, to stay in hostels.

Gallery Hostel Porto Portugal

When I first heard the phrase ‘luxury hostels’, I scoffed and called it an oxymoron. I read various travellers’ accounts of their stays in such lodgings and although even I would admit that the photos I was looking at were a far cry from the hostels of my memories, I still only considered hotels or B&Bs for my accommodation.

When I found myself booking a last-minute trip with some friends to Porto in Portugal, I booked the same accommodation as them, which happened to be ‘luxury’ Gallery Hostel. The website looked promising but I was nervous about staying in a dormitory with strangers (my friends had already booked a private double room for themselves); although I figured it could be a good chance to see what the luxury hostel concept was about, and perhaps change some of my preconceived ideas.

To say my ideas were challenged after my stay would be an understatement. I loved Gallery Hostel, and would now consider booking a luxury hostel on future trips. Here are five reasons why I fell in love with this place, and why you would love it too:

Gallery Hostel Porto Portugal

1. The staff are some of the friendliest you’ll ever meet:

Beginning with check-in, the service at Gallery Hostel is a far cry from a general hotel experience. There is no cold efficiency, no feeling of being rushed and a genuine sense that the staff really care who their guests are and where they come from. A personal tour of the fantastic building and amenities follow check in, and staff are more than happy to provide recommendations for transport, things to do, and places to eat throughout your stay. Interacting with staff at Gallery Hostel feels like being welcomed into a local’s home; one with knowledge of the area, good food and drink to share, and a comfortable bed to lay your head after a day of exploring.

Gallery Hostel Porto Portugal

left: a private double bedroom in Gallery Hostel

2. All the added extras make this hostel amazing value:

Pay just €20 per night for a bed in a dorm and you’ll get not just a bed, but also wifi, a rain shower, towels, sheets, hairdryer, an ample locker, night light, use of the winter garden and access to the cinema room, bar, original displays of art and a roof garden. A huge breakfast is also included in the price, as is a free city walking tour (which I highly recommend). If all of that isn’t enough, you can have dinner in the dining room for just €10 – which includes wine. All in all, the value for money of Gallery Hostel is undeniable…but if you’re still not sure about sharing a dorm room, there are private rooms available for €60, which is still cheaper than most hotels.

Gallery Hostel Porto Portugal

the winter garden: a place for guests to relax outdoors, even in cooler weather

3. Location, location, location:

Nestled between galleries in Porto’s famous art district, Gallery Hostel is close to so many of the Portuguese city’s best features. Crystal Palace and its surrounding gardens is just steps away from the hostel’s door, great shopping is within a minute’s walk, and a 20-minute stroll will take visitors all the way to the beautiful Duoro riverfront. There’s a great choice of food, drinks and nightlife within just a kilometre of the hostel, so there’s no need for taxis or public transport if you’re happy to walk.

Gallery Hostel Porto Portugal

top left: the communal dining area. top right: the kitchen. bottom: breakfast

4. Details make the hostel practically ooze character:

It’s true that one should never judge a book by its cover, but with Gallery Hostel you could. The bold yellow, textured tiles that clothe the 1906 building are a good indication of what can be found behind its thick, wooden doors. Many elements of the traditional house still remain, such as the stunning blue and white tiles throughout the common areas, or the ramp to an underground cellar that can be seen through a glass floor at the hostel’s entrance. They have thought of everything a traveller could want or need, and have created a variety of common areas to suit every mood and personality. Socializing with guests is as easy or as optional as you’d like it to be, but relaxing is practically mandatory.

Gallery Hostel Porto Portugal

 clockwise from top left: the bar, tiling, one of the common areas and original artwork

5. It’ll change your view of hostels forever:

If you think you could never enjoy staying at a hostel, I dare you to stay at Gallery Hostel. Not only is Porto an incredible city to visit, but the accommodation will be memorable and opinion-transforming. There are so many ways in which this little gem of budget accommodation beats an average hotel; I’ve covered a few of the fantastic features available but you really need to experience it for yourself.

Not going to Porto? No problem. Here’s a list of other luxury hostels in Europe you could try.

Have you stayed in any luxury hostels? Are you put off hostels from past experiences? Let me know in the comments below!

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[fashion editorials to inspire travel]

Readers, let me get a little candid for a moment: I am insanely sick of this seemingly endless winter, struggling to recover from a lingering illness and, quite frankly, feeling lazy. This evening I’ve been racking my brain for a post that won’t just be token, but equally won’t take too much brain power to publish. Admittedly, much of that brain-racking time was spent watching Mad Men and browsing fashion editorials online, wishing I could be transported out of my cold living room and into the sunny, colourful, exotic destinations before me. And then it dawned on me…instead of writing a wordy post, today let me just brighten your Wednesday with fashionable images from around the world (hover over each image to see the location & publication). Enjoy!

Amsterdam - Free People Catalogue

Marrakech - Ann Street Studio

Benidorm - Elle Spain

Coco Rocha for Longchamp

Coney Island - Elle Czech

French Riviera - Neiman Marcus Book

Guatemala - Elle Mexico

Hong Kong - Stylist

Maldives - Harpers Bazaar Australia

Mojave Desert - Vogue Australia

Nicaragua - T Magazine

Peru - Elle Mexico

Spain - L'Officiel Paris

Sweden - Vogue Brazil

California - Vogue Brazil

Now if that hasn’t got you pining for a holiday to…well, anywhere…then I don’t know what will! I love it when fashion & travel fuse so perfectly together!

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[5 places I need to give a second chance]

I love travelling to new destinations, and I try as much as possible to go to places I haven’t already visited, with a few exceptions such as Paris, New York and Sydney, which I’ll happily return to as many times as I can. Recently though, I’ve been thinking about returning to some places I’ve seen before instead of trying new destinations, as during my first visit they didn’t capture me in the way I thought they would. The cities I’m talking about might surprise you as they’re some of the most loved destinations for other travellers, but I just didn’t like them when I was there. Looking back, this was largely due either to circumstances beyond my control or bad planning, but in any case, I would love to go back to these destinations again to give them another chance.

Las Vegas:

Las Vegas - Places I Need to Give a Second Chance

I only had one night in Vegas (error) and was backpacking on the world’s tightest budget (also an error) which were both major contributors to my feelings towards Sin City. One thing I did love was the cheap accommodation – I stayed in a room in the Stratosphere which was like living in the lap of luxury compared with what I’d been staying in for the previous few weeks. I also loved the fountain display at the Bellagio and the amazing interior of the Venetian hotel.  What I didn’t like: slot machines (snore), walking (because I didn’t have enough money for a cab or monorail ticket) along the strip in the baking hot night, seeing mothers dragging their toddlers into casinos at 2am and having stripper flyers forced into my hands the whole way along the strip. I guess I mostly saw the seedy side of Vegas, but I’d love to go back with a little more money and experience some of the glitz and glamour that is so often associated with the infamous city.

Miami:

I think this was another case of too little time and money (it was the stop before Vegas), but Miami just didn’t do it for me. Sure, the art deco buildings were pretty impressive, and South Beach is nice as far as beaches go (I’m a spoiled Aussie beach snob so a nice beach isn’t enough to win my heart, unfortunately!), but I would like to travel back to Miami and try some of the incredible food and drink I hear is rife in this southern city. Also, if I ever find myself back in Florida I’ll be stopping in Orlando for some fun at The Wizarding World of Harry Potter!!

Dublin:

Dublin - Places I Need to Give Another Chance

image source: luxetravel.com

When I visited Dublin aged 16, I was forced to go against my will with my parents (because, seriously, what’s less cool than a road trip to Dublin with your family?), although now I’d say that sounds like an awesome way to spend a long weekend. I was too young (or just thought I was too cool) to appreciate beautiful, lush, green scenery or incredible city history. Now that I’m older, wiser, and aware that no one is too cool to appreciate beauty and history, I’d like to return to Dublin…and as I’m of age I might even partake in a sampling of Guiness!

Berlin:

Berlin - Places I Need to Give Another Chance

Love Parade 2002. Image source: lastfm.fr

Not long after the Dublin disaster, my Dad treated my brother and I to a weekend in Berlin. Thankfully I was past my ‘won’t-be-seen-with-family’ phase so I was looking forward to seeing the sights of Berlin. Unfortunately, we happened to be there at the same time as the now-cancelled Love Parade; an electro music festival that saw almost a million people dressed in latex S&M-inspired outfits swarming upon Berlin. Needless to say, as a 16-year-old girl with her Dad and brother, this was a scarring experience and totally ruined the trip for me. I’ve never heard a bad word about the über-cool German city since then, so I’d like to go back and experience it properly.

Barcelona:

Barcelona - Places I Need to Give Another Chance

image source: telegraph.co.uk

This might cause some raised eyebrows, as Barcelona is so many people’s favourite city and I am yet to come across another person who doesn’t rave about it. For me, I just didn’t get it. I loved seeing Gaudi’s incredible architecture, Las Rambla was interesting (in the same way that London’s South Bank is interesting, but I wouldn’t go out of my way to go there) and covered market La Boqueria was pretty cool. But I just didn’t get what the big deal was about. I still don’t. Perhaps someone can explain it to me…or perhaps I should just return to Barcelona and discover for myself what I missed the first time around!

Are there any cities or destinations which didn’t captivate you the first time around?

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